Three Bodegas and their malbecs from Mendoza

Mendoza is an arid stretch of land similar to New Mexico with the stately purple-hued, snow-capped Andes Mountains as a backdrop. Mendoza wine region (the size of Illinois) is to Argentina like California wine country is to the United States — huge in size with varied climate conditions and different terroir from one end of the wine area to the other.

Good value and great flavor are found in Argentine malbecs, a varietal that is to Argentina as cabernet sauvignon is to Napa Valley, shiraz is to Australia, sauvignon blanc is to New Zealand, tannat is to Uruguay, tempranillo is to Spain, and sangiovese is to Italy.

Some basic malbec knowledge can lead you in your choice. Young malbecs are dominated by aromas of vivid plum and boysenberry, tar and evolve toward cinnamon and vanilla. Old vineyard malbec produces small concentrated berries with black cherry, blackberry flavors, truffle and a chocolate finish.

The following malbecs from three bodegas will help you experience it all.

Terrazas de los Andes produces a Reserva Malbec ($16) that is amazingly complex for the price, full of dark berries, plum, smoke and a hint of cocoa. This affordable reservas line features wine grown in select vineyards to get concentrated fruit at altitudes for optimal ripening. Vineyards planted on the mountainside are increasingly typical in Argentina.

French family-owned Bodega Alta Vista offers a Premium Malbec ($15.99) that is deliciously fleshy, elegant and slightly spicy. Alta Vista Grande Reserve Terroir Selection Malbec ($25) is more meaty, complex and tannic. It cries for an Argentine Asado (barbecue) of tenderloin, beef ribs and sausage. 

Valentin Bianchi Bodega has three categories of malbec that when tasted together help you know what Argentina and its malbec are all about. Elsa Bianchi Malbec ($9) has a weighty mouthfeel with soft silkiness of cherry on the palate. Famiglia Bianchi Malbec ($15) is the next tier. Its ripe plum, cherry, and blackberry flavor ends in a long lush finish. Particular Malbec ($30) has muscle. Its concentration and complexity make it the intellectualÂ’s wine that make you think about it while you sip. Layers of fruit, spice and intenseness beckon you.

Contact the Steves at reniesteves@msn.com